Our Travels Adventures

Exploring the reserved areas of the south of Ukraine. Fourth part – relaxed

September 19, 2018

We stayed at friend’s house in Odessa.
Having slept well and had breakfast, we began to look for a way to repair the existing one or get another tent. And in the end, we rented a 4-seater tablet (self-folding).
In the process, walked with friends through Odessa))

We decided to go to a campsite near Odessa – in Dofinovka. Camping is like camping, only the conditions are worse in terms of conveniences than on the Arabat Spit. But we’ve clearly angered the Spirit of the Tents with something .. At the time of getting the tent in our hands, we checked it – but yes – it didn’t help)) When the time to put it up came, it turned out that one of its arcs was broken. Maybe in the process of packing / unpacking, maybe in the process of transportation .. well, already a laughable tantrum. Twisted it with the last coupler and set))
At the same time, we tried to find out from all our acquaintances and friends whether we could somehow get from here to the Kinburn Spit. Was not able to find options.
The next morning we realized that we were not happy with just hanging around at the campsite, packed up and went for a walk around Odessa, and in the evening went to Chernomorsk.
Odessa is an amazing city! Bright, sometimes contrasting, impressive and magical.

There will be a separate big story about Odessa. In the meantime, we enjoyed beautiful sunny days, fun company and delicious food. I must say that the point of food culture is a separate big topic. In different places of our country, everything is very different in this matter. For example, in Kharkov, the culinary tradition has not been preserved as such (due to mass relocations and the continuous flow of students and workers for many decades). But in Odessa, it formed in the century before last, and culinary traditions have still been preserved. In addition, it stands much southerly than of Kharkov (for example) and therefore vegetables and fruits are tastier there because of the large number of sunny days during the year.
When our weighed legs asked for mercy already very loudly, we went to drink tea. There are a lot of tea (different and good) lovers in our company, so we chose the tea house «Heavenly Dew&raquo. I have not been there before, but our friends are its regular visitors. A large selection of tea (green, white, black, pu’er, etc.), which is very well prepared. Plus, a pleasant atmosphere, soft pillows and warm light, chess)) I recommend.
In contrast to the tea house, there was an extremely negative impression about the store-tea house «the Terra incognita&raquo. I tried to buy incense sticks there for about 15 minutes – the sales assistant was so slow that I involuntarily recalled the sloth from the cartoon “Zootopia” .. The hostess herself is a friendly lady, very similar to pixie from fairy tales))) But the tea… To begin with, I went to the stand with teas, read the names – there are almost no tea without additives. I poke my finger in what I like, please brew. They answer me – it is impossible – it is expensive. Like this. And you do not know what to say))) Okay. A nervous, twitchy young lady is trying to explain why not. As a result, she takes the can from the shelf, turns it over and says – you see – it says “only for tea ceremonies.” Well, yes – how could I not have guessed. OK. Trying to choose something else. I find another Te Guan Yin (of those that can be prepared). Please brew it. I waited until the young lady decides what to do – either answer me or someone else. As a result, it took us about 20 minutes to order tea and sweets; not all the light works in the room with tables and sofas, so we sat in a dark corner. The remaining tables are for one or two people. But tea turned out to be such a straw, which I had not tried for a long time. Either mine, or puer, or the rest. Wow! Don’t go there to drink tea))
Another interesting place was the cafe «Momoyama Ramen Bar». It is a pity that there is no such thing in Kharkov (((Food is very close in preparation to original recipes, which is very pleasing (usually all Asian cuisine is adapted to local requests). As a result, there is nowhere to eat normal ramen. It’s difficult to cook at home, as it’s not always possible find the right ingredients. And here – just a fairy tale! In addition, the portions are large and satisfying))
We were in Chernomorsk twice – in the evening on Independence Day and during the day before a trip to Akkermansky fortress.
Evening Chernomorsk (even on such a big and noisy holiday) is a very quiet, nice place. Last year we were here at the “Koktebel Jazz Festival” – and it was also very nice, in spite of the commotion and the mass of participants and the festival team. There is a wide three-story embankment (plus, in fact, a sandy beach), all green – trees, flower beds, fountains .. Several establishments (restaurants and cafes with large spacious areas) in the green zone of the embankment, there are few people, everyone is walking and talking quietly. For two days we saw in Chernomorsk one or two drunk people (the rest either do not drink, or do it at home/at a party/in a restaurant). After the Zhelezniy Port – a balm for the soul)) No – I’m not a hypocrite and I have nothing against beer/wine/brandy .. Just when you get into an environment where everyone is already not quite adequate from alcohol and there are a lot of them, they scream, make noise, swing, then it becomes dreary.
Chernomorsk itself was once a part of Odessa, but it separated. Actually, therefore, the impression of it remains as from a small town (and it is very small), and not like from an overgrown village (this is not always a negative feeling, but often). The streets are wide, well-groomed, neat houses, on every street there is at least one park or square (there are not many streets here))). Very nice town! And there they also cook raps in sour cream very tasty)) Cafe “Aquatoria” (there and everything else is pretty good, except for the bones in the mackerel filet))))

Well, the last point before the road back home is the Akkerman fortress in Belgorod-Dniester. Going there from Odessa / Chernomorsk is not a lot of fun, since the road lies through Karolino-Bugaz and Zatoka.
Imagine a road along one lane in each direction, which is surrounded by houses and bases, hotels and hostels, standing close to each other. Along and across the road people go in a continuous stream. On the Arabatskaya Spit is almost the same, but there is more space from the road to buildings. And a continuous stream of cars at a speed of 20 km / h. And the length of this part is about 20 km. But this is only a third of the way – otherwise a pleasant not very broken road))
At first I was worried that we would arrived at the fortress at about 6 pm, but as a result, everything turned out to be not at all scary)))

From a historical point of view, this fortress is one of the best fortifications, which, from the 13th century until the time, it became a historical monument, was taken only twice – once by deception, and the second – by a real military trick)) Well, this is also a different story))
As it turned out, from the point of the photographic view there is almost nothing to shoot there. Interesting appearance (from the city side), and large empty courtyards inside. Well, except for one, which is near the entrance – there are cafes, souvenir shops and entertainment – like archery.

There is a citadel in one of the courtyards:

A museum of torture tools is now housed inside the Citadel. One of my friends (a big fan of military history) grumbled for a long time that the tools of the Europeans are presented in this museum, and not the Ottoman, Moldavians, and local people, although they also have something to be proud of (C). Like this.

Wandered around, waited for the sunset and drove back. After visiting the fortress in Kamenetz-Podolsky, I expected a slightly different picture. But this fortress will now remain in my memory, as a monument to simplicity and practicality))

The road to Kharkov was not without adventures also)))
The easiest way to get from Odessa / Chernomorsk to Kharkov is via the Odessa-Kiev highway with three (already) options for the second part of the route. It is better not to consider the road through the Kherson / Nikolaev region as an alternative. The highway Odessa – Kiev is smooth, three- / four-lane, free and calm. But, as it turned out, not everything is so simple.
There are three options for driving along this highway. The first is to turn off from this highway towards Kropyvnytsky in front of Lyubashevka. We tested this last year and did not rejoice a bit – the navigator took us in such wild places that we were able to meet someonly only once every 30 km. Although there is a direct road, it is not in the best condition (although there are more people there). In any case, this road has been completely broken over the past few years and people are trying to avoid it in every possible way. The second option is via Kiev. But we were stopped with a few things – to enter Kiev on Sunday evening is not a good idea (everyone returns from the weekend and the traffic jam can be there for hours), road work and terrible traffic jams were also going on the Kiev-Poltava highway, and it was just extending the route by at least 150 km. Well, the third way we have not yet tested is through Uman. We decided to take a chance and it turned out, not in vain. The road from Uman to Krapivnitsky is flat and smooth for 90%, almost empty – it is a pleasure to drive)))
And so we drive along the highway, we begin to think about filling the fuel in reserve. And at gas stations along the highway was just trash. The line of cars was already on the highway near each gas station. There are usually 10 columns at such large gas stations. We pass one, another, third … As a result, we reach one of the most expensive “Socar” – almost near Uman. Just the third in line. We had to be alert))) As a result, we were filled by a full tank (50 liters more than required), despite the fact that the refueling guy was told that it wasn’t necessary and didn’t have time to get to the cash register. As it turned out later, we are not the most affected – at this gas station, they not only regularly fill up to full without demand, but can also pour the wrong fuel. And later it turned out that people also get robbed there regularly (here we were lucky). We tried to ensure that the excess fuel was drained, but there were no means for that at the gas station. As a result, we negotiated a discount and drove on.
Otherwise, returning home was simple and enjoyable.

The trip turned out to be fun, intense, not boring at all and very informative))

First part – hoofed-steppe.
Second part – stormy.
Third part – emotional.



Olga Dzyuba
Kharkiv, UA

Hello! My name is Olga, nice to meet you! In this blog, I am talking about our travels to beautiful and unusual places in Ukraine and beyond. Well and the history of these places. I sincerely believe that it is possible to find something interesting anywhere - just look at the outside world from different angles)))